Ai thích đeo gì thì đeo thôi,
có bài hay chia sẻ với các cụ, nhân tiện bài nó có mấy ảnh các đ.h vintage đẹp
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ten-questions-john-goldberger-interview
Editor's Note: Welcome to 10 Questions, our new column in which we speak to the most interesting personalities across the watch world, getting their insights into the state of collecting today. Let us know down in the comments who else you would like to hear from!
When we decided to launch a new interview column focused on collectors and personalities in the watch world, it was a no-brainer that the first person interviewed should be Mr. John Goldberger. From his episode of Talking Watches (with the famous cheese knife scene) to his incredible books about the world's best watches to the his steady presence at auctions and events world wide, it's safe to say that Goldberger is an institution and a fan-favorite. Here we talk about how his own collection is evolving, his best advice for new watch enthusiasts, and why he just doesn't get the 5711 mania. Without further ado, here is 10 Questions with John Goldberger.
Goldberger's ref. 6098 with a beautiful star dial.
1. Since your Talking Watches episode in 2013, what is your favorite watch that you've added to your collection?
In the few last years, I have tried to shrink my collection and to improve the quality and the rarity of the watches. My favorite new watch is a gold Patek Philippe self-winding perpetual calendar, ref. 3448, with a unique gilt dial and luminous markers and hands. The watch is complete with the original box and certificate from 1971. I believe that this model is one of last well-designed wristwatches by the Geneva company.
2. We're nearing the end of the decade, with 2020 just a few weeks away. What do you think has been the biggest change in watch collecting over the last 10 years?
The revolution of the social networks – especially Instagram – profoundly changed the world of watch collecting. However, the democracy of the web has created a new generation of collectors, but also collectors who are a bunch of "frantically informed idiots!" Within the last 20 years, the community of the watch collectors and dealers has become even closer and more interwoven, with huge quantities of information exchanged and now readily available, due in large part to the internet. The internet has enabled a significant percentage of the world’s population access to relatively arcane and esoteric information about things like watches and horology. Due to the discussion forums, then blogs, and now social media, there is a large global online audience ready and hungry for any information pertaining to vintage and modern watches.
The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in yellow gold.
3. What do you think is the best vintage watch for a beginning collector to start with?
For me, the best model to start collecting watches is the Omega Speedmaster. Omega manufactured this watch from 1957 until today, making a large number of models with a lot of variations in case, dial, and movement. A fresh collector can find a lot of forums and blogs for accessing information about these watches, and also there is a lot of good literature on the matter. But the most important thing it is a great watch to wear on daily basis.
Goldberger recommends new collectors give the classic Omega Speedmaster a look.
4. What do you think is the most undervalued vintage watch today?
This is an excellent question. Everyone wants to know what brands or models will go up in value with time. Now the most undervalued timepieces on the market are the complicated pocket watches by Patek, Audemars, and Cartier! Regarding wristwatches, I do not see any brands or forgotten models from the past – everything has been discovered! A few years ago, I wanted to start a small collection of vintage Grand Seiko and I thought they would not be very expensive. Incredibly, I found a great collection around the world, and the watches already had very strong prices!
While Genta's designs are classics, Goldberger doesn't understand the mania for the modern incarnations of the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and more.
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5. What do you think of the current trend toward stainless steel watches with bracelets (Royal Oak, Nautilus, etc.)? Do you see this continuing or do you think the trend will change soon?
They are great watches to wear, they are vintage but with a contemporary look, and their design is timeless. However, I do not understand a lot of the crazy prices of the models manufactured in the last 15 years!
A successful collector is often an innovator, the person who falls for something that many others may have overlooked.
6. What is the best city in the world for vintage watch lovers? Why is this city the best?
During my long collecting life, I have found many interesting cities for vintage watches in different periods. In the eighties, it was New York; in the nineties, Milan; at the beginning of the second millennium, Bangkok. Now for me the most exciting city, where you can find interesting shops, collectors, or simply aficionados, is Tokyo.
Goldberger's own ref. 4113 split-seconds chronograph from Rolex.
7. Which complication is your favorite and why?
The chronograph with split seconds. I spoke with a few old watchmakers from Patek Philippe, and they told me that this is the most difficult complication to mount and set on the movement. I love the oversized split-seconds for aviation or car racing use.
8. If you had once piece of advice you could offer to young or new watch collectors, what would it be?
Buy what you love (and can afford). A true collector must make great decisions, even ruthlessly, to define the limits of his or her collection, and should never exaggerate. One can build a beautiful and rewarding watch collection commensurate with one's budget, if one takes the time to acquire the knowledge necessary to make educated decisions. A successful collector is often an innovator, the person who falls for something that many others may have overlooked. This kind of gut feeling can lead to the best buys, and give the collector a head start. They have to collect for passion and to forget that can be a financial game.
The white gold ref. 6265 Daytona dubbed "The Unicorn" sold for CHF 5,937,500 in May 2018, with the proceeds benefiting Children Action.
9. In 2018 you auctioned off the "Unicorn" 6265 (which was featured in your Talking Watches episode) for charity through Phillips. Was it a tough decision to sell this unique piece? What do you consider when deciding whether or not to sell a special watch?
I realized I could make a positive impact on society by selling the watch to benefit a charity, so I decided it was time to let it go to a new home and at the same time support a cause I care deeply about. In the past, I've sold other very interesting watches, but just to have funds to buy other rarer and nicer examples.
If you don't follow John Goldberger on Instagram (@goldberger), you're really missing out.
10. What is a watch that you're currently searching for and why does it interest you?
My dream watch is always the next discovery. I would like to find a white gold or platinum Grand Seiko. I like the clean design of the case and the great quality in the finishing of the movement.
Thank you to John Goldberger for doing this interview with us. And, as a reminder, let us know who you'd like to hear from next in 10 Questions down in the comments below!
của mỗi người .
