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How to change your oil in a Hummer H3 including gear lube, transfer case, and transmission fluid
Hummer H3 maintenance
You already know that your H3 is an awesome machine. It looks great, corners well, and hangs a u turn like a sports car. Your H3 is incredible off road, and you can hang with jeeps, land rovers, or any other SUV. You also know you get a nice ride, and a lot of looks. (some not so good) Your gas mileage is pretty good too. It makes me wonder why the dirty looks.
I drive a 2006 base model H3. I love this thing! Right from the factory I got 19 miles per gallon average. I never drive strictly highway, or around town, and often have some off road travel involved.
Although I'm impressed with my Hummer, and impressed with the mileage, I immediately strived to do a little better.
As soon as I hit the 500 mile mark I changed my oil to synthetic, and got .5 miles a gallon better. I was looking for better. I wanted to know those Subaru driving dirty lookers were way off base. Nothing against Subaru's mind you. I wanted 20 MPG average fuel economy. Nineteen miles per gallon just wasn't good enough. I got my 20 miles per gallon, and here is how I did it in detail.
Things you will need:
* A small oil filter wrench (you can't do without it)
* an automotive fluid pump (2 pint capacity)
* one quality oil filter
* six quarts of 5W-30 or 0W-30 synthetic motor oil
* three quarts of 75W-90 gear lube (gear oil)
* two quarts of 75W 90 transmission/transaxle gear lube
* two quarts of synthetic ATF (automatic transmission fluid), or an additional
* two quarts of 75W-90 synthetic transmission/transaxle gear oil
* an oil drain pan
* and adjustable wrench, or 9/16" box wrench
* a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench
* a 3/8" drive knuckle extension.
* some shop towels, or paper towels
* a piece of cardboard to guide oil waste into the collection pan
* safety glasses and latex gloves
Step one:
Let your engine cool an hour, put on your safety glasses, and the latex gloves, grab the 9/16" box wrench, or the adjustable wrench, the cardboard, and a towel, and crawl under your H3 from the front end with the hood open. Use your adjustable wrench, or better the 9/16" box wrench to loosen the oil drain plug. It is located just forward of the transmission, and on the drivers side of your oil pan. You will notice there is a skid plate directly under the oil drain plug. Once the plug is loosened, place the cardboard under the drain plug, and extending to the rear past the skid plate. Place your oil drain pan under the end of the cardboard, and the drain plug. Do NOT expect the skid plate to direct your used engine oil into the drain pan! Once your have your oil collection system in place, remove thr oil drain plug, and get out of the way. Let the used motor oil drain completely from the oil pan.
At this time if you are already using Amsoil synthetic oil, and an Amsoil Ea oil filter you will be pleasantly surprised at the golden brown color of you used oil, even after 25,000 miles. If this is your first oil change after break in, or you are switching to synthetic oil from conventional oil for the first time you will be a bit grossed out.
Once all the oil has drained (within reason) from your oil pan, replace the drain plug, and torque snug. (19 ft lbs for you anal types)
Now get out from under the truck and drag your tools and the drain pan with you. I suggest a nice cold beer at this point. You will need to go back under the truck later. We are taking this one step at a time.
Step two:
Grab your oil filter wrench, and reach under the hood on the left side just under the serpentine belt tensioner. (trust me do it this way) You will be working upside down, so lefty tighty, righty loosey. Loosen your old oil filter just a smidge. Now place your oil drain pan under the oil filter. With your left hand, remove the oil filter without letting go of it, or letting it tip over. Remove the old oil filter keeping the open end up, and place it in the drain pan open side down. Have a little more beer from your still cold can, and wipe your hands dry with a towel.
Use a small amount of oil or grease to lubricate the rubber "O" ring on your new Amsoil Ea064 nanofiber oil filter. (use this filter for best results) Using your left hand from under the hood, screw on your new oil filter. I suggest a slight tightening with the oil filter wrench due to the awkward placement of the oil filter. Now it's time for a tad more beer.
Remove your oil filler cap, and add six quarts of Amsoil 5W-30 synthetic motor oil, or 0W-30 synthetic motor oil. Start your H3, and shut it off. With your Hummer on level ground, remove your dipstick, wipe dry, and replace. Remove it again, it should read well into the safe zone. At this point I like to open another beer. That's up to you. You have now saved yourself about 0.5 miles per gallon, and a little over EIGHT oil changes if you drive 25,000 miles per year! Now drain you oil collection pan into the empty Amsoil containers, and wash your hands thoroughly. (I know your not using the gloves I told you to use)
Reset your oil life indicator per your owners manual.
Step 3:
Gather your synthetic 75W-90 gear oil) EP suggested), your 3/8" ratchet, the fluid pump, and the drain pan.
Crawl back under your H3 Hummer, and find the banjo plug, or rear end filler plug. It has a square hole just the size of your ratchet end. Place your drain pan under the plug, and remove the plug with the ratchet. (no socket required) It's not likely any fluid will escape at this point. Place the flexible tube from your fluid pump as deep (meaning toward the ground) as possible into the cavity, and draw out the old gear lube. Next, expel the old gear lube into you oil collection pan. Now draw out another pint from the rear end, and expel the old gear lube into the collection pan.
Once you have withdrawn approximately one quart (two pints) of old gear lube (most pumps hold one pint), you are ready to refill the rear end. Using the same method in reverse, draw the new synthetic 75W-140 gear oil out of the Amsoil container, then place the tube from the fluid pump into the filler hole of your rear end, and expel the new gear lube. Draw one more pint from the new quart of Amsoil gear lube, and expel into the rear end fill plug. You will notice your new quart of Amsoil synthetic gear oil is almost empty. Replace your drain/fill plug, and torque. tightly. Congratulations! You are through with step 3. At this point I'm ready for another beer, or will save the rest of the operation till tomorrow.
Step 4:
Step 4 is slightly different than step 3. You will need to remove the middle skid plate. You need a 1/2" socket, Slightly loosen the two forward bolts on the forward skid plate. Now completely remove the two rear bolts on the forward skid plate. Observe the orientation of the skid plates. The middle one is located over the rear end of the forward plate. Next loosen the rear two bolts on the middle skid plate. You can now slide the middle skid plate toward the rear, and it will fall out.
Remove the top filler plug from the front end, being careful to keep the nylon washer on the plug. Now place the oil collection pan under the front end drain plug, and remove the plug. Once the old gear lube is drained, replace the bottom drain plug. Draw one pint of 75W-90 gear lube from your new Amsoil bottle, with the suction pump, and expel into the top filler hole, and repeat until you have replaced 3.8 pints. You will also need to replace the skid plate once you replace your gear oil. Don't drink more beer than I tell you ok? Drain your oil collection pan contents into you Amsoil containers, and cap them. Teak a break.
At this point you have done more maintenance on your H3 Hummer than most people do for the entire life of their vehicles. It wasn't so bad was it? You are very close to that 20MPG, and saving a world of hurt on your wallet for maintenance, and fuel cost. You have also saved time going to the dealer or mechanic.
Do not drink and drive! You love your truck, your family, your friends, and maybe your neighbors. Let's keep them safe!
Step 5:
Let's take care of that transfer case. Gather your 3/8" ratchet, the extension, two quarts of synthetic ATF, or 75W-90 manual transmission -transaxle gear lube, the automotive fluid pump, the oil collection pan, and get back under your Hummer from the passenger side. Using your adjustable wrench, remove the top plug from the transfer case. The transfer case on a four wheel drive vehicle is located behind the transmission, and forward of the rear drive shaft. Place the oil collection pan under the bottom plug, and remove it. (you are wearing the gloves and safety glasses correct?) Allow the transfer case to drain. Now replace the bottom plug, and torque gently. (This is not a strength competition) Using your fluid pump, draw one pint of your preferred fluid from the container, and expel into the transfer case. Repeat until you replace 3.2 pints of fluid. Now replace the top filler cap, and torque gently. You could open a beer now, but you are almost done. There is only one more step!
Step 6: Your transmission.
Part A- 5 speed.manual transmssion: Grab your adjustable wrench, two quarts of 75w 90 manual transmission gear lube, the automotive fluid pump, and the oil collection pan. Remove the top filler plug using the adjustable wrench. Place the oil collection pan under the bottom plug, and remove it. When the transmission is through draining, replace the bottom plug, and tighten. Draw a pint of gear lube from one of the containers, and expel into the tranny. Repeat this until you use 4.6 pints for a two wheel drive, or 4.9 pints for a four wheel drive. (why would you want a 2wd hummer? Replace the top cap, and tighten.
Part B Automatic transmission:
Read this article first,(how to change automatic transmission fluid) then proceed to get under your H3 with your wrenches, filter, oil collection pan, and 11 quarts of synthetic ATF for a full fill. Use all 11 quarts of ATF.
You are almost done!
Drain all your fluids into the empty containers, and dispose of at your local collection facility for recycling.
Clean your tools, and put them away. Now you're done!
Enjoy the quiet, easy shifting fuel efficiency for 25,000 miles or one year, then repeat steps 1, and 2.